Out of the 12 weeks of this project, I will probably spend a total of two weekends in Bangkok, if that. During the week, I leave my hotel at 8am and return at 11pm, so I really have no time to explore the city. So it was a good thing that last (long) weekend, my gay bestfriend decided to come to visit me in Bangkok (instead of our original plan to go to Cambodia together). I have to admit, I was not a very good host in the sense that I knew nothing about Bangkok and he had to research what he wanted to see, but I made up for it by being pretty much up for anything he wanted to do1.
FGR arrived on Thursday night (or rather, Friday morning) at 2:30am and we stayed up talking till 4am. We had so much to catch up on since the last time we saw each other was in Qingdao right before he quit our company. I updated him on all the people that had left since him (a lot) and he updated me on his new fabulous life as a diplomat’s spouse.
The next day, we visited two must-see temples in Bangkok: Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Both were completely worthwhile, even in the Bangkok heat.
We had lunch at an outdoor market near the Grand Palace, from a very local street stall. He had a pad see ew and I had a suki soup, a dish I’d only recently been introduced to by a local at the client canteen.
We had dinner at a “royal Thai cuisine” restaurant called Ruen Mallika. While the decor was certainly interesting, the food was not as good as what I had at another popular Thai restaurant often recommended in guide books: Baan Khalitha (which is actually within walking distance from my hotel). Of course, the food was definitely great compared to Thai food outside of Thailand, and FGR was blown away.
After dinner, we went to Khao San Rd. To be honest, I’m not sure why this road is so popular because to me, it was a rather unexceptional night market (except for the fact that there were carts selling fried cockroaches, grasshoppers, and other insects). For lack of anything better to do, FGR and I decided it would be fun to get henna. He got a star on his ankle, and I got a dragon on my shoulder blade. It was the year of the dragon, I am a dragon, and I personally fancied the idea of having dragons on my shoulder a la Danerys in Game of Thrones.
The next day, we went to see the Grand Palace. It was massive and gorgeous, but there were a lot more tourists. I got an audio guide because I thought understanding the history behind the Grand Palace would make it more interesting, but I was bored of the audio guide within five minutes. Instead, FGR and I wandered around the grounds taking funny pictures of each other2.
In the afternoon, we went to Chatuchak, a market only open on weekends and the largest open-air market in the world. It was truly massive, and you could pretty much find anything you were looking for. FGR and I did not have any shopping for ourselves to do, we shopped for our dogs. The pet section of the market was probably the most surprisingly upscale section of the market, with little enclosed air-conditioned “stalls” that were like small boutique shops. The outfits were adorable and decent quality – but the selection was definitely better for female dogs than male dogs. I got a navy blue polka-dot dress and a fuzzy bunny suit (which my dog will probably hate but I think it will be hilarious) for my baby girl and FGR got a Superman shirt and a hoodie for his baby boy.
Saturday night’s event was gay-clubbing, for which FGR was obviously excited about. We had dinner in a supposedly famous bar in the gay district – Telephone Bar. The food there was surprisingly good, but the margaritas not so much.
After dinner, we moved our drinking to a bar next door. The margarita was better and we downed our pitcher at record speed. At one point during the night, I asked FGR to Google “symptoms of liver failure” because I was afraid the two Tylenols I took before coming out would shut down my liver and therefore, drinking alcohol could be fatal. FGR was not taking no for an answer, so in the end, I had to match him drink for drink, and by midnight, we were both very drunk. We stumbled to one street over where the big gay club was (DJ Station), but I was denied at the door because I’d forgotten my ID. Who knew they were so strict about IDs in Bangkok? No one seemed to ID in bars, but apparently they ID’d at gay clubs.
It turned out to be a good thing that we were turned away because we had to be up at 5:30am the next day for our trip to the floating market. We got back to the hotel at 1am, got an embarrassing amount of McDonald’s, and watched Sex and the City (the early years) until we passed out.
The night did not pass easily for me. I was feeling extremely dizzy, nauseous, and ill the whole night. I started to realize this was the price I paid for mixing alcohol and Tylenol. I should’ve known better. I felt so sick I thought I needed to go to the hospital, but could barely wake FGR. I eventually lost consciousness around 4am and was rudely awoken at 5:30am to get ready to leave. I was in no shape to go anywhere, but since we’d already paid for our day trip, there was no way to cancel. I somehow managed to drag my butt out of bed. A minivan picked us up at the hotel and I spent the whole ride in a hazy, hungover kind of sleep.
By 9:30am, we reached our destination. It wasn’t until we were in a boat on the river that I really started to wake up. Once we reached the main market place, we paid extra to board a smaller boat to explore the rest of the floating market and its canals. I didn’t really start to get over my hangover until I got some fresh mangoes from a mango lady. I hadn’t gotten any food in my stomach since our 5:30am awakening. The mango was so good I ate the whole thing. Thai mangoes truly are the best mangoes.
In the end, the floating market was really worth it, despite the early wake-up call and the awful hangover. I had definitely learned my lesson though: never mix Tylenol and alcohol.
We got back in the afternoon and FGR went for a swim at the hotel. For dinner, we went to the mall next to my hotel, which is themed as an airport terminal. This was one of the most impressive malls I have ever been to in terms of design. The theme was well-executed down to the smallest detail. The “airport terminal” had a departures board on the first floor and a different city theme for each floor: Rome, Tokyo, Paris, San Francisco, Istanbul, etc. and the shops on each floor matched the theme. The interior design was also phenomenal. The Rome floor was lined with Roman columns, had a piazza in front of an angel sculpture fountain, and frescoes along the ceiling. The San Francisco floor had a Golden Gate bridge across the open-air middle and a boardwalk. It was truly impressive. We ended up having ramen that night, and went back for shabu shabu the next night.
Our last night together was also the night when Bangkok pretty much shut down for the cremation ceremony of a deceased princess. We had wanted to check out Soi Cowboy, which was right next to our hotel, but found that it was closed, so we ended up staying in and watching Sex and the City with enough junk food to feed a small army.
It was an amazing “vacation” weekend, and I didn’t want the vacation to end. Luckily, Thailand had two long weekends in a row, so it would be a short work-week for me. The following weekend, I would be visiting FGR in his new home in Guangzhou.